Closely packed peaks · little time to reset · weak refraction
Santa Agueda station · 36.951° N / 122.028° W
READTHEWATER.
A forecast is a number until the ocean moves. Shape the swell below and watch the lines arrange themselves.
BREAK QUALITY / LIVE MODEL84
6ft @ 14s WNW — pumping
Long-period energy is standing up well before the reef. Light texture only.
ENERGY GEOMETRY
306 m CREST SPACING
FEELS BOTTOM NEAR 153 m
ROLL FORWARD
01 / STATION DISPATCH
Issued 04:38 · Forecaster Mara Venn
The west window opens before the wind does.
A deep Aleutian fetch has tightened overnight. First energy reaches the outer reefs at civil twilight; the inside points wake roughly forty minutes later. The shape is better than the raw height suggests.
LOCALFACEPERIODWINDCALL
05:405–6 ft14 sNNE 3 ktGO
07:104–5 ft14 sNE 5 ktWAIT
09:256–7 ft13 sWNW 8 ktREEF
12:405 ft12 sW 14 ktBLOWN
02 / WHY PERIOD WINS
Same height. Entirely different ocean.
Six feet is only half a forecast.
Period describes the distance between the ocean’s breaths. Drag the primary-period control above: at 7 seconds, energy arrives in a confused crowd. At 14, the same six feet draws long, separated cords across the horizon and feels the bottom much earlier.
Open intervals · energy reaches deep · points begin to connect
L ≈ 1.56 × T²
Deep-water wavelength. Fourteen seconds carries nearly four times the spacing of seven.
03 / TIDE DESK
Friday · July 10 · Santa Agueda
The reef gets a forty-minute invitation.
Best overlap is the final third of the push: enough water over the west shelf, not enough to soften the bowl. The bureau’s call is wheels rolling at 05:12.
- LOW
- 03:48 0.6 ft
- HIGH
- 09:56 5.1 ft
- SUN
- 05:58 NE 61°
FLOOD RATE +0.82 ft/hrWINDOW 05:26–06:06
6'3'0'
00040812162024
04 / BREAK FILES
One swell.
Three translations.
The bottom writes the final forecast. These are the bureau’s three reference breaks, modeled against your sea-state inputs above.
- ACTIVE INPUT
- WNW · 14s
- OUTER WATER
- 11.8°C
- CONFIDENCE
- HIGH / 87%
R / 01
Outer reef / 2.8 m shelf
WIDOW’S LEDGE
Amplifies west energy and throws early. Best at 4.1–5.0 ft of tide; punishes short period with a double-up.
- LIKES
- W–WNW / 13s+
- RISK
- Dry west boil
P / 02
Basalt point / 420 m wall
NORTH RELAY
Turns long WNW lines into a patient right. Fourteen seconds can link the radio tower to the inside cobbles.
- LIKES
- WNW / mid push
- RISK
- Inside sweep
B / 03
Mobile sand / bar 6C
THE SWITCHYARD
Needs less tide and more luck. Wind chop makes the peaks wander; clean groundswell reveals two reliable A-frames.
- LIKES
- W / low–mid
- RISK
- Closeout sets
05 / DAWN-PATROL BOARD
Cold lot · dim light · no second trip
Leave before the forecast feels certain.
Pre-dawn competence is mostly preparation. The ocean can stay mysterious; the fin key does not have to.
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